A whole lotta Lottie (blouse)

Voilà! Just finished my 4th Lottie blouse, and I’m still totally in love with them.

My 3rd Lottie
French seams chiffon Lottie

It’s a great way to update my wardrobe in a classier version. I’ve decided to cut on the puffy floral circle skirt style and swap it for sexier pencil skirts and blouse… Perfect for the office (hum, even though I work from home, haha).

Of course, do yourself a favor and MAKE A TOILE! Practise on old curtains or any unwanted fabrics until the fit is perfect for your shape.

This version has previously been modified. If I remember correctly, I shorted it, adjusted the armholes and changed the sleeves to a 3/4 length. And because I’m using a sheer chiffon, I’m using French seams on most seams for a nicer finish. If you’re NOT familiar with those seams, please use regular RST (right sides together) seams, or practise on your toile first.

Then, it goes:

-assemble your patterns pieces

-assemble your supplies

-lay your pieces according to the grainline (if you’ve cut your selvedge, you can try and pull a tiny bit of thread to see its direction, hence finding the way of the fabric). Make sure to mark all your notches and darts (since my fabric is fraying a lot I used dressmaking pencils instead of clipping in the fabric). Make sure to mark all your notches and darts (yes, I repeat myself, this step is quite important!).

-if you need to overlock or staystich your fabric pieces, do it now (note that you do not want to overlock if you are using French seams; like I did. See photo below).

-the first thing you want to do is to test your stitchings and sewing machine settings  with  your fabric. Adjust the needle size/tension/thread if needed. Perfect? Ok, let’s do this! PS remember to press each seam open at every step!

-place your top piece on top of your back piece and stitch the sides and the shoulder seam (the one at the very top).

-stitch the sleeve underarm seam, repeat with the other sleeve. 

-attach sleeves to top, gathering at sleeve head.

-finish hem on sleeves and on blouse.

-pin bias binding (or self-made one) at the ‘keyhole’ part and stitch.

-assemble the neck tie at center and fold lengthwise. Stitch at end of each side but NOT in the middle part (you can measure the neckline on your blouse stopping at the bias tape and leave that measurement open on the tie).

Do note that most fabric won’t be long enough to place the neck tie on the fold. Just plan a bit extra for the seam and cut two of the pattern!

-pin only one side of the neck tie to the blouse, starting with the middle, all the way to the bias binding part. Stitch in place, being careful not to stich the other side of the tie.

-Cover with the other side of the tie opening (sandwiching the top in the middle), pin in place and stich in the ditch to close (-> stitch exactly on the seam line of the necktie but catching the seam underneath at the sale time to close the opening). Reinforce corners where the neck tie and bias binding meet.

Note : If you’re not sure about stitching in the ditch, you can also hand stitch on the inside to close the neck tie (like the last picture).

And, you’re all done! I hope you enjoy your Lottie(s)! 




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