Lucille, the making of…

Back to my Lucille dress (previously mentioned here), from Simple Sew Patterns, and how gorgeous it is.

First, a bit about the package:

 [Lucille] features a cleavage-enhancing pleated cross-over bodice, and the choice of either a fit-and flare half-circle skirt or a sexy fitted pencil skirt (from the Simple Sew Patterns website)

lucille-package

I was looking for something stylish and not needing so much fabric, to use the beauty I acquired in Japan (while on honeymoon) four years ago. It’s a floral cotton, from Tomato fabric store in the Nippori area (ohhhh if I could only go back!….).

Buuuuuut, as I only had one backpack which was pretty full of souvenirs, I sadly had to take it easy on not getting mental with my fabric purchases. Here are my lovely purchases, getting used little by little.

japan-paris-fabric
Japanese floral, Yuwa fabric, Hawaiian made in Japan, Japanese wool (plus checkered print and Toile de Jouy, bought during the overnight stay in Paris on the way back)

 

 

Because I only had 115cm x 114cm of that fabric, it seemed like mission impossible to begin with,… But with a bit of perseverance, a contrasting waistband (and quarter-scaling), it all worked out perfectly.

Making a draft of your fabric, and your pattern if a great way to check your pattern placements when you don’t have a lot of fabric.

quarter-scale-lucille
When low on fabric, a little bit of planning goes a long way!

One of my only concern with this pattern was the instruction talking about back waistband, which obviously doesn’t exist (there’s a front yoke waistband, but it stops at the sides). Once you pass that, it’s all good and matching perfectly.

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Forget the back waistband 🙂

Like on every project I sew, I began with staystitching the sides to prevent stretching, and overlocked the pieces that were going to be visible (but neeeeevvvveeerrrr the waist! You don’t want to add any bulk there!).

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inserting a staytape in the neckline

I also inserted a staytape in the neckline to prevent gaping (with always occurs on me). Now, I am new at this staytaping thing, and I find it a bit confusing. I have to admit that I’m not 100% satisfied with this one, as I pulled it a little bit too much to make sure it’d stay as close to me as possible. Plus, my tape was probably a tiny bit too wide as it added a bit of bulk on the seam. Conclusion, more practice/testing/reading about it needed (and let me know your tips about it!)

Some other of my “regular” sewing habits, that you should include too if you don’t already, are

-pressing the seams open, e-ve-ry times!

-pressing the darts toward your belly button

-clipping and notching where needed (armhole people!!!!! It’s so important!)

-and…. Well… I just love a garment as beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside. So, I did my best to make it fully lined, but, it wasn’t really a piece of cake…. And I had to use some hand sewing here and there (!!!!!).

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beautifully fully lined
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darts adjustement

I also reinforced the back slit opening, with a bit of organdie -> thanks to Pinterest!

Verdict, a very good 8.5/10. I will probably do it again, but maybe with my own pencil skirt pattern. The pleats are quite nice and original, but I think it does add a bit of volume to my hips…

I hope you enjoy it as much as I do, and I finally have an event to wear it too (Scottish McOpera Benjamin Britten ‘s Noye’s Fludde I’ve been helping doing costumes with Carys Hobbs!).

If I could only convince myself to wear my Japanese shoes with it now… But I may still be a bit too shy for them! 😉

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Ta-da for now!

Caro’ (and Petite-Moi, my 1/4 scale me!)

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